Semi-Permanent Straightening - Keratin Treatments (aka BKT)

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General Info - no consultation is required for this procedure.

Brazilian Keratin Treatment, also known as BKT, Kerain Treatment, or Brazilian straightening, is an innovative treatment. This treatment does not break curl bonds, it only over rides them, as opposed to all other forms of straightening on the market prior to this technology, which intentionally break bonds and ALWAYS leave the hair less resistant to future damage in some capacity. Keratin Treatments truly do no damage to the hair, other than potential flatiron damage if a stylist is not careful. Curly and straight haired people both benefit because it is like a shellac for the hair that protects the cuticle from regular abuse and truly preserves the hair like nothing else and gives hair noticeable luster. The BKT service absolutely replaces all other conditioning treatments on the market, and for most people, it replaces the Japanese Straightening. Nothing comes close to reviving or preserving hair like this service. Out of all the other systems we have access to, it is the choice for our own hair.

BKTs can be done on top of all other bond-breaking services including hydroxide based straighteners, amonium thio based straighteners, bleach, high lift color and regular color. BKT and TR can both be combined when extreme porosity differences exist. For example, highlighted crown/front area, virgin curly nape. Nape would be TR'd, highlighted areas would be BKT'd. Up until this product, no straightening treatment was this versatile.

The service takes between 2 and 4 hours. After the hair has been treated, there is a 2-4-day waiting period before it can be washed, depending on what brand is used. Manufacturers suggest no ponytails, no tucking behind the ear, no nothing during the waiting period. However, even when ponytails, headbands or scarves were worn during the waiting period, there have been no reports of any impressions being left. Once the hair can be washed, only products that DO NOT contain sodium chloride should be used since Sodium Chloride can shorten the BKT life span. There is debate whether or not Sodium Chloride in the ocean, with water softeners, in sweat, etc... effect the BKT. It seems it would, but that is not certain. Other names for Sodium Chloride are: Sodium PCA, Sea Salt, Salt, Oceanic Minerals, and NaCl.

This is a semi-permanent straightening service which will generally last 2 to 4 months when processed with a flatiron and 6 to 8 weeks when blown out with a round brush. This means that if the BKT lasts 2 months, 1/2 the curl is back in 1 month...1/4 the curl is back in 2 weeks...etc. The more porous the hair, the straighter it goes and the longer it lasts, in general, however that is not always the case. If the hair is split and severly damaged, it has been observed that the BKT does NOT help much, and fades faster off of split hair. It has an accumulative effect with multiple treatments resulting in longer lasting smoothness. And on some people, the straightness becomes permanent. The initial straightness and rate of reversion will be different on every head of hair. And the more the hair is shampooed, the faster the BKT wears off, in general, except for those where the straightness has become permanent. The first time a client books a BKT, they should think of it as an experiment because results completely vary from person to person.

A very unique aspect of the BKT is the fact that it’s “heat activated”. If you airdry your hair, you will very likely still see wave. If you blowdry your hair, it will smooth out. It takes heat to achieve the maximum straightness of style after a BKT. It is NEVER recommended to flatiron the hair, despite the BKT coating. But, if flatironing is required, the BKT allows the hair to respond to lower temperatures, therefore the flatiron should be turned down

Color Info

According to the manufacturers, color can be done immediately before the BKT on the same day. However, we have found that color changes less with a week waiting period. So, book your BKT one week after your color, if possible. The BKT does not affect natural haircolor, however, it sometimes gives a yellow tinge to white and silver hair when flatironed at the prescribed temperature. This yellow fades, but becomes slightly darker and longer lasting with repeated BKTs. This can be avoided by lowering the flatironing temperature, but this also potentially shortens the life of the BKT. In general, consider the BKT you "top coat". You do not want to do anything over the top of it, or else the BKT could be compromised.

There is some controversy with the BKT, like any new technology. The issues pertain to the inclusion of formalin, or other chemical-siblings. Formalin goes under many names including Formaldehyde, Formal, Methanal, Morbicid Acid, Methylene Oxide, and Methyl aldehyde. Some BKT companies market their product at "Formaldehyde free" when in reality, they're just listing formalin under a different name. There are some truely formaldehyde-free formulas, but we’ve found that they do not last more than about 1 month, and yet usually cost the same price. The keratin in the BKTs has absolutely nothing to do with the effectiveness of the BKT and could be removed from the formula all together, which is why the hair does not straighten itself even though it’s made up of keratin. There is some gassing off during a BKT. All of the gassing off occurs in the salon. As far as we know, there has not been one health-related issue in the U.S. exclusively due to the BKT process. Like all other salon processes, people with asthma, or other chemical sensitivities in general, WILL be affected more than others by the smells. Some clients don't smell a thing, and some clients react immediately.

In hopes of getting some chemical clarification, professionals who regularly handle high percentages of formalin were consulted. Two undertakers in particular were very helpful. They use solutions of formalin diluted to 15-22% without respirators or much ventilation, and only recently gloves. In America, the various BKT solutions are most likely around 2 - 7%. The main ill affect amongst people handling formalin without respirators is loss of smell due to inhaling the fumes. Companies or stylists who tout the ultimate demise of anyone using or receiving a BKT treatment are most likely concerned about health, but ultimately are not well informed. When used in conjunction with saftey gear, there is NO inhallation of fumes. Period. For everyone's safety, respirators are provided to clients for ANY chemical straightening service since breathing in fumes of any type is not recommended.

Because of the overall simplicity of the BKT, it's very likely that the BKT will be offered in many salons. The benefit that UnSprung will provide, above and beyond other salons, has been and will always be the attention to personal safety, the low overhead, the complete commitment to quality and customer satisfaction, and the constant investigation of new technologies in the field of hair straightening services.

For more information on the Brazilian Keratin Treatments tested, visit the BIO section and scroll down, and be sure to visit our FaceBook page at UnSprung Salon for more indepth information.